Melting-pot? No. Mosaic? Yes! It is the Canadian way. It is the nature of multi-cultural Sudbury.
Our culinary landscape is definitely getting more diverse. Over the decades Sudbury has become home to many more restaurants billed as international, pan-Asian, Mexican, Indian … and flags of many countries are proudly displayed in signage colour schemes, on menus, and in names.
We used to call it “Ethnic Foods” and that could extend from Ukrainian ‘varenyky’ (вареник) /Polish ‘pierogi’, to our first waltz with schnitzel or sampling of sushi. It was new, it was novel, and it was delightful.
Even if we can’t travel now, food can transport us from here to there. It is a story, a snapshot, a hint of somewhere else.
Mohammad Abdollahzadeh is the proud owner of Eyvan Persian Cuisine. Why Eyvan?
“Eyvan is like a roof-top garden terrace. A place to have great food and amazing hospitality,” he said. Currently, it really is the only operating tenant of the Elm Place food court. There are still many offices functioning in this downtown complex and Abdollahzadeh is definitely developing a following.
The office crowd knows he has a generous red lentil stew and enticing butter chicken.
“If they taste, then they become more adventurous,” he said.
His menu is simple and streamlined. Appetizers include olives done with walnuts and pomegranate syrup, and an eggplant and yogurt blend, while wraps are a quick grab and go. Chicken or beef kebab wraps or plates (there is also chicken and eggplant) are options if you have had shawarma three times already this week — Just kidding, who can say no to shawarma?
“Originally, I did not have a shawarma on my menu. It is adapted to my taste and it is not traditional. It is my interpretation; sort of all what makes a shawarma so desirable.”
Abdollahzadeh confides how he infuses flavours and how he shaped his menu.
“The chicken kebab is marinated in onion water, not onion, which makes it so moist and so juicy. Poaching chicken legs that have been seasoned in house tomato sauce for two hours or more makes them very tender. I source my saffron from Iran. I melt Ice in with the saffron. The resulting extract is a stronger colour and has better flavour.
“Oh, sure, you can pour boiling water over saffron. It is a quick fix, but I guarantee it won’t ever taste the same. Sometimes recipes are finicky and complex, so maybe there is a better way for some things. But often you have to respect what has been passed down.
I really can’t tell you all my secrets, but I can tell you this is my favourite,” he said, pointing to the chicken with barberry. Barberry is a little like cranberries, but certainly more citrusy. Berberis vulgaris is rich in vitamin C. It has a lemon/lime peel flavour profile, and is an essential ingredient in Persian cooking. In Iran, it is referred to as zereshk (زرشک).
The sweet citrus hit alongside the aromatics of saffron is what some might refer to as “mysterious” and exotic. When simmered with onions, sweet bell peppers, carrots, a kiss of turmeric, saffron — the Persian signature spice — really makes things flavourful.
“Saffron is super expensive. More expensive than gold by weight. I have mine come direct from Iran. Very fresh, very perfumed. It is like being home.
“It is not really fast food, there is preparation. Persian foods are typically slow cooked, eight hours for some dishes. Often it’s just the finishing touches here before it is hot, ready, and easy to take home. I’ve changed my methods, the recipes and even the preparation … but still respect the origins.”
Abdollahzadeh and his family arrived in Canada on the coldest day of 2019.
“It was scary. There was a storm. Such bad weather we could not land. But I love being here.”
Born in Shiraz, he grew up in the port city Bushehr.
“I took training courses in hospitality, management, and cooking, but I never thought cooking would be my job. I liked cooking even when I was four or five. I would stir a pot, or try things on my own. I like Arabic food, and Mediterranean cuisine; all the different explosions of flavour in your mouth.
“Now I start early in the morning. We make it all from scratch. My wife, Niloufar (lotus flower), helps. She stays with our four-year-old son during the day. He is very Canadian! He knows where he comes from, but has embraced his new home. He speaks English so well. We have some good friends here, but no close family. So many of my customers are my new friends.”
Eyvan opened during Pandemic.
“Yes, last December, 2020. I see it a challenge, but compared to the risk we took moving to Canada this is nothing. I look forward to the end of pandemic and when I can hire someone.”
Lunch is the busiest time at Eyvan. Will Abdollahzadeh grow the concept? “It is my hope to have more spots across Sudbury. I start here, but I am forward thinking of a third location. For the second, it will be in New Sudbury.”
As my take-out bag is being loaded to go I can’t resist the dessert options. There is tiramisu and I feel I’ve walked in on Rob Reiner and Tom Hanks in “Sleepless in Seattle,” and just have to order a serving. This time I must resist requesting a square.
But don’t say no to baklava. Abdollahzadeh makes it twice a week.
“I use walnuts, pistachios, and almonds in the right percentages to maximize flavour.” It’s not sticky, nor syrupy, and is a great way to top off your Persian picnic.
Eyvan Persian Cuisine
Located in the Elm Place food court
Hours 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Monday to Friday
Saturdays 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Sundays
Eyvan will have a website in the near future.
Hugh Kruzel is a freelance writer and committed foodie in Greater Sudbury. Let’s Eat is made possible by our Community Leaders Program.
