The words ‘bakery’ and ‘deli’ just don’t capture the complexity and spectrum of food opportunities in this one-stop shop. Regency Bakery and Deli has line-ups. People wait patiently. Those who know it, know why. Those who have yet to venture, well, why have you not been there yet?
It once was in the same mall as A&J Home Hardware and Gloria’s Restaurant.
“My dad started there. He converted an existing butcher shop into his dream,” said Paolo Massimiliano. “Elio, is still here, and always has words of wisdom.”
You know, he comes in every morning and has a coffee.
“He started in Italy, coming to Canada in 1967 when he was about 19 years old. He had some family here and he went to work right away at Cecutti’s. Moving on to Food City, in the old City Centre, he was running the baking department there.”
In 1984, Elio Massimiliano launched his own place.
People do line up – and not just respecting occupancy and COVID protocols – for fresh kaiser buns, calabrese rolls, breads, then desserts, cheeses, cold cuts, and so much more. You go in with one thing on your list and BOOM you have two bags of goodies to go. How does it happen?
“We are fortunate to still have our doors open and have people still come out; they support us. We have incredible staff that come in with a smile on their face and make customers happy too. They sure have stepped up.”
Since he was 16 and throughout university, Paolo worked alongside his family.
“I originally went for Commerce and came home with an Economics degree, but I’ve always worked here. At about 29, I went to pursue a culinary career. Cooking and baking and everything food has been a huge passion of mine. I went to Georgian College, then I bounced around Barrie, Orillia and Muskoka, working in restaurants, catering companies … pastries, sous chef. Then when I returned to Sudbury, I did two years at the Idylwylde (Golf and Country Club) before I chose to come back into the family business.” It was Paolo’s influence and history that expanded the additional food choices for consumers.
With his brother, Max, alongside for seven or eight years, the business now has passed to Paolo.
“Yes, Max semi-retired this past year.”
This labour of love means long hours and early starts.
“Some of our staff start at 4:30. During certain times in the year I come in early too – especially Easter, Christmas, Thanksgiving Mother’s Day and soon Father’s Day -- but it is my own business. It is what it is, but I’m happy to be doing it.”
Successful, busy, loved, Regency is a destination. The parking lot is big, but sometimes it is hard to find a spot. First stop is the big freezer section. Here you will find prepared meals.
“That’s been very popular during COVID. I’m really proud that we never laid anyone off. Take home is an important service. We have not catered weddings, nor office lunches but it will all bounce back.”
Chicken parmigiana, lasagna, chicken marsala, veal, cannelloni, spinach manicotti, 10 different soups from minestrone to roasted red pepper and Italian wedding … traditional cheese cappelletti made with bone chicken broth.
“Some of these recipes are older than I am. Quiche, frozen pizza -- you can pick them up on the way to camp – have par-baked crusts. Fifteen minutes in the oven and you’re ready to serve.”
Paolo is proud of Regency’s shepherd’s pie and the mousaka, too.
“The Greek dish is a traditional recipe handed down by another long-time friend. We keep growing and put new things in the freezers. You know whatever we put in there it’s going to be good.”
The place is brimming, the shelves chock-a-block jam-packed. “We are kinda tapped for capacity right now.”
Yes, the shelves are full. Dried pastas, condiments like Inglehoffer’s mustards, jarred chutneys, gourmet products, unique truffle lines, canned goods, luxury goods.
“We are always trying new things to bring to our customers. I try everything that comes in the doors. Probably over 100 cheeses. It is a personal interest. For example black lemon gouda – you don’t know what to expect! The licorice ash is creative. Caramelized onion cheddar… oh, I have to try it, and then I love it. Then I share it.”
Past the cheese case, meats and cold cuts wait.
“I grew up on mortadella sandwiches. Now, we have salamis from everywhere, including a white truffle salami. Made in-house porketta, our own sausages are mild, hot, Italian. Then there is the rapini sausage. It is unique and terrific. The kids will have meat and vegetables all in one.”
Seriously, this is the sausage that is my magnet; fresh or frozen it is an essential.
But bread, that’s what brings the loyal customers.
“Some people come every single day. Some of these recipes are again older than I am. Our Calabrese recipe – what our business has been based on -- comes straight from Italy. It was passed down for generations, now it comes to me.
“All this resonates with our customers. We don’t automate. All our loaves, buns and rolls are handmade and hand-shaped. Our dough is based on feel, the temperature, the humidity all have an effect. Artisanal also means we also use no preservatives.”
My last stop includes spinach pinwheels and Portuguese custard tarts.
“We’ve been making these for five or six years. It features phyllo pastry crust supporting an almost crème brûlée centre. Like our eclairs – with the choux pastry – all pastries are made from scratch.”
You might as well cave and have them build a box of beautiful desserts. There are cakes, cookies, and so much more.
“I don’t want to come off cocky, but I think we have the best butter tarts in the city,” Paolo said. “We are just doing what we have been taught: being welcoming, warm, and engaging.”
Regency Bakery and Deli
1355 Regent Street
705-522-8861
Hours:
Monday to Friday 9 – 5
Saturdays 9 – 4
Closed Sundays
Hugh Kruzel is a freelance writer and committed foodie in Greater Sudbury. Let’s Eat is made possible by our Community Leaders Program.
