A burger can be a beautiful thing. Ground prime rib beef is certainly not a standard ingredient for your average burger. But then again Ricky Lee’s Da Bomb Diner patties are better, way better, than average. Let’s call them what they truly are: steak hamburgers. Others advertise grass-fed, steroid-free (definitely no bovine growth hormone), however, these here are savory symphonies.
“We are not here to compete, and to be honest this is just a comfort food place,” owner Rick McCutcheon said. That said, at just two years old, Ricky Lee’s has already earned the title “Best burger in town”. What was shaping up to be an annual event, the title was awarded in the 2019 cross-town Burger Wars. This is a consumer choice program brought to Sudbury by Mitch Speigel to both honour top performance, but also as a community spirit exercise.
Not just any burger, the award-winning Proud Canadian includes peameal bacon, bacon strips, onion rings, mozzarella and cheddar cheese. There is that just right mouth-feel chomp from the marbled meat. The juiciness fills your mind with sentimental satisfaction. The rings give a satisfying crunch.
“Shaped just right, the perfect patty results in ideal tenderness. Ours are charbroiled. Nothing is done on a flat top,” McCutcheon said.
Grab the deceptively simple menu. The first (though difficult) decision to make is a choice of quarter- half-pound Triple A beef. Along with the bun, this is the foundation. Heck, you could even just go with a patty with a simple garnish.
“My favourite actually is The Smoker, which features smoked brisket, smoked bacon, mozza and cheddar,” McCutcheon said.
A house-made Jack Daniels BBQ sauce and you are miraculously transported to the Deep South. In total, there are a dozen burger choices. Yes, 12! All day, every day. Regulars come back more frequently than weekly, returning to sample each expression of burger perfection.
The legendary Sudbury Stacker brings many people in the door.
“It probably is our most photographed creation.”
At 12 inches tall, this specialty knows it is head-and-shoulders above all others.
How did McCutcheon develop his recipes and perfect ideas?
“Well I’ve been in the food service industry for four decades. I started at Mr. Prime Rib when I was 14!” McCutcheon — a certified red seal chef — has therefore seen it all. He has watched tastes and trends come and go. Nevertheless, nostalgically good food never goes out of style.
Let’s not forget poutine. There are 11 options plus the traditional. The Heart Attack has loads of cheese (four kinds), and then there is the gravy. Here, gravy is not out of a package.
“We reserve the drippings from whatever we roasted in the four upstairs ovens and the downstairs rotisserie,” McCutcheon said. “This is like liquid magic.”
The servings are generous, and though most people come for burgers and poutine, they soon discover all the other offerings at this eatery. This could be the unexpected Lobster Ravioli or subs. Seek out the Veal Marsala — which has that oh-so-good Marsala wine base and button mushrooms — look to the chalkboard for additional suggestions. McCutcheon listens for fresh or revival-worthy ideas.
“There is always room to try something innovative without changing the printed menu. Features and specials give us even more latitude to be creative.”
What about décor and ambiance? Think of this as a 1950s diner with that neon pink of the jukebox and turquoise painted walls. Gazing at the red bistro chairs, the contrast of the black and white tile floor and formica table tops, McCutcheon is proud of the recent expansion to 24 indoor seats.
“It turned out the way we envisioned it.”
Because takeout was considered in the original plan initially there was limited inside seating. That start-up summer Ricky Lee’s experimented with a small patio to handle the enthusiasm. In 2020, COVID-19 forced change and a new larger terrace was built on the western edge of the property. McCutcheon said that soon a permit will allow him to expand beverage options.
“Sudbury will always be home so we shop for ingredients and supplies locally as much as we can.” Naturally, beer from Stack and Ontario wine reinforces his buy local philosophy.
Ricky Lee’s is now closed Sundays and Mondays to pay full attention to provisioning 11 daycare centres with quality meals for 220 children.
Rick McCutcheon looks to the future, and sees in his children the aspiration to expand the brand and offer quality food choices to a larger audience.
“We don’t want to lose the home cooking feel even if and when we grow.”
Ricky Lee’s Da Bomb Diner is located at 1308 Lasalle Blvd. in New Sudbury.
Hugh Kruzel is a committed foodie and a freelance writer in Greater Sudbury.
