Historically, you knew it was Friday because fish was on the family table. TGIF then meant “Thank Goodness it’s Fish” and in my childhood of the 1960s it was usually haddock or cod.
For the younger crowd, battered Captain Highliner fish sticks were de rigueur. A sprig of parsley, a wedge of lemon, a dollop of Kraft tartar sauce and Ta da, gourmet! Well, maybe not.
It was the arrival of Anke and Tony Teklenburg that changed the game for the better. Charli Jelen has kindly shared some insights into her parents' arrival, business journey and the remarkable impact they had not just on seafood, but dining in Sudbury generally.
Through Charli, her mother, Anke, kindly answered questions, also.
“It has been 12 years since my parents sold the restaurant,” Charli said. “It was nice to see [my mother’s] face light up as she fondly recalled what she calls ‘when we were in business.’ My dad passed away in May of 2017. This year has been particularly difficult for her especially with COVID-19. She lives alone and any opportunity to talk or even to have a visitor is met with great enthusiasm.
“My parents came to Canada on vacation in August of 1973. When they were here, they loved how spacious and beautiful it was. On Nov. 29 of 1973, we moved here permanently. We stayed in Barrie for a couple of weeks with my uncle and then we stayed in North Bay for several months with my dad's brother. My parents worked with him at his restaurant until my dad decided to open his own restaurant in 1974. They chose Sudbury because it did not have a seafood restaurant.
“My mom remembers that life in Sudbury was so different from life in Holland. Other than the sheer size difference, the most notable change was how quiet and slow everything was here. In Holland everything moved faster, highways were busier and pedestrian/bicycle traffic was always busy. [As] traffic was so much slower and less busy here, Mom was able to confidently get her driver's licence within a couple of years.”
What was it like to be "the fish place" in Sudbury? Charli posed this to Anke.
“After seriously considering her answer, she merely stated, ‘It was nice. It made your Dad and I proud.’ When I asked her, ‘How did you do it?’, she looked at me with a sense of confusion. My parents came from a generation where you just did things whether you wanted to or not. There was no choice.
“You made things work or you didn't survive. She thought about it and said, ‘I was determined to make a success of it.’ I recall having lots of different babysitters and eventually we had a nanny who came in daily to cook and help us with homework. My mom came home every day at around 3 p.m. and stayed until 5 p.m. She then would go back to help with the dinner rush.”
The Teklenburgs sold the Lasalle restaurant in 1991.
“It has changed ownership since,” Charli said. “The new owners also changed the name to Teklenburgs Steak and Seafood. My dad firmly believed that in order to specialize, you had to do one thing really well. For my parents, it has always been fish and seafood only, and always one location only. I do recall that several years in, my parents did offer chicken for kids and what they called ‘non-believers’. I also recall how many of these my dad converted by cooking a piece of halibut for them — free of charge, of course!
In 1999, the couple got back into the restaurant game by opening a new eatery in the South End.
“When they sold the [Lasalle] restaurant in 1991, part of the agreement included a non-competition clause,” Charli said. “My parents had to wait five years before they could open another restaurant in the Sudbury area. They had a little restaurant out in Nairn Centre for one summer and then they opened in Chelmsford for a couple of years before moving to the South End of Sudbury.
“My mom said she always loved serving the seafood and the daily dinner specials. My dad always went out of his way to get all kinds of interesting choices from various suppliers. I'm pretty sure before he introduced shark, no one in Sudbury was eating it. He also brought in mahi-mahi, red snapper, eel, Alabama catfish and so many more. His dinner specials changed daily and there was always something unique on the menu. One of my mom's favourite things to serve was a meal called the ‘Canadian’ it included lobster, crab legs, shrimp and scallops.
“It was named ‘the Canadian’ to honour the country they called home and because it was mostly red and white like the flag.”
What about Charli? How did she get into the industry?
“I have been in this business since I was 12. Yes, people come in and enjoy the menu. I'm not sure if it's comfort they come for, per se, however I do believe that the fish and chips are an old favourite and they have not changed. I do get a lot of customers that used to come in to see my parents and they are happy to see that I am still around. I think, in this day and age, it is so nice to go somewhere that reminds us of a simpler time.
Anke and Tony’s Seafood Restaurant still has a home on Long Lake Road, though the menu has evolved over the years under the new ownership, Charli said.
“The menu has changed considerably since my parents were here. The new owner has been concentrating more on the Thai food. It's super delicious, by the way. He has scaled back the fish menu to reflect what is most popular. My parents spent three months training him and his staff so that the food tastes as good as it always did.
“On the current fish menu, my favourite item is the Surprise Platter. I will often recommend it. It is one of the dishes my late father came up with. He used it to showcase all of the new and interesting types of fish and seafood he was bringing in.
“Now it includes everyone's favourite types of seafood and fish, but it is still prepared the same way, including how it is partly pan fried, partly poached and partly deep-fried.”
Eating habits have changed, too, over the years, Charli said.
“These days, people are eating more healthy. Less and less people are ordering the ‘all you can eat’. My Mom and Dad had never heard the terms ‘gluten-free’ or ‘lactose intolerant’. Although people still expect a generous portion, I have personally noticed that more people are taking home the remainders of their meal.”
And while Anke and Tony’s Seafood Restaurant might not be operated by Anke and Tony anymore, Charli said the standards her parents expected of themselves and their establishment haven’t changed under the new owners.
“There are four things that make our place the place to come for a meal out: No. 1, quality. The food is awesome. Whether you order fish or Thai, the food is prepared with care and only from the freshest ingredients. No. 2, quantity, you can get three pieces of fish, fries and coleslaw for $12.95. I rarely see anyone finish this. The Thai dishes are also quite generous. We have a lunch special on weekdays that includes a spring roll, a soup and a choice of (10!) main courses also for $12.95. No. 3, selection. With two full menus, we have something for everyone! No. 4, friendly service. We love to see happy customers
“We introduced My Thai Palace in 2012. It was an easy transition since everyone was asking my boss to serve Thai food. He also owned My Thai Palace on Notre Dame so that brought many loyal customers over. It really works well because it gives the customers so much selection.”
I dialled up Charli on Friday. I had to ask about the effect of the stay-at-home order on business.
“We have streamlined the menu a little bit. Fish and chips, halibut and fries are still popular. I believe we have all our soups available. Go to our website for the Thai menu. A full menu is on Skip The Dishes. We are busy.”
Many of us remember the warm welcome of Anke and Tony. Now 46 years later a legacy lives on.
Anke and Tony's Seafood Restaurant
ankeandtonysseafoodrestaurantsudbury.gastrobars.com
2037 Long Lake Rd
705-523-4567
Hugh Kruzel is a committed foodie and a freelance writer in Greater Sudbury. Let’s Eat is made possible by our Community Leaders Program. Are you an advertiser? Learn more about our Community Leaders Program here.
