Special occasions, family events, celebrations — yes, fine dining can be part of your 50th birthday or 50th anniversary. But maybe fine dining is more than just those milestones and moments.
Across Sudbury, many consider Verdicchio as one of the destinations for fine dining in the Nickel City. Let’s Eat asks Mark Gregorini, chef/owner, and SlowFood Master of Italian Cooking, if it is true.
“There are many Italian restaurants in town that do a great job. Our cuisine is a little different as we focus on primarily central Italian cuisine, as well as incorporating spices and flavours from other cultures.
“Italy was a peninsula that was constantly invaded and influenced by neighbouring countries so it was natural that certain regions incorporated these foreign flavours into their local cuisine.
“As for fine dining, it can be interpreted in so many ways. To many, fine dining means white gloves, high prices and small portions. Fine dining to me represents the best quality ingredients that I can provide, cooking with my guests’ dining experience in mind … and knowledgeable and professional service.”
Who taught Gregorini, and when did it all begin?
“I don’t think it ever really ‘began’ and I can’t say that I was always in the kitchen watching my Nonna or Mom cook. We grew up with great cooks in our family and neighbourhood, where every season brought new plates to our tables. Our families went hunting, foraging and grew gardens so we would appreciate what they brought home for us.
“Being submerged in this ‘food culture’ gave us an appreciation and understanding which stuck with me. After high school, I decided to backpack across Europe for five months. Seeing different countries, dishes and cultures helped build on what would be my future profession. I make it a priority to continue with my studies in Italian food and wine, balancing emerging trends with tradition, and not being afraid to take risks and make mistakes.”
You just can’t resist asking these two questions.
“Mark, what's your favourite thing to make (and) your favourite meal to eat?”
He laughs, “I really enjoy simplistic dishes. Rarely do I use more than five ingredients as I do not want to take away from the natural flavours. What is important, however, is seasonality.
“Choosing ingredients that are in season is part of our philosophy. I can’t say that I have a favourite dish as I really enjoy utilizing all the local spring ingredients that we can get — ramps, maple syrup, fiddleheads and asparagus to name a few. However, if I were to pick a dish, I would have to say that a well-made risotto with any of these spring ingredients is hard to beat. It’s simple, nourishing, well-balanced and truly brings out the individual flavours of the ingredients you are using.”
Celebrating the season means Gregorini recently included smelts as an appetizer, and maple highlighted throughout a one-off weekend menu.
“Smelts have always been a part of our seasonal features. They run once a year and it says ‘spring is here’. As a kid, I would watch my mom clean the fresh smelts and fry them with a simple dusting of flour, salt and pepper. We would eat them with young dandelion leaves, a kind of Italian surf and turf and amazing combination. Unfortunately, this year, the smelt run came before the dandelions.”
Like every other restaurant these days, it is take-out only. We just aren't going to Verdicchio to enjoy splendid sit down, dine-in service. How does that affect what is attainable and how Gregorini prepares dinners?
“When we first shut down, I sat with my kitchen staff and asked, can we offer a product that is as close as possible to what we can offer in the dining room: quality, temperature, plating style. We experimented with timing and packaging with the guest’s takeout experience in mind. So, we have managed to keep food quality and presentation at the top of our priority list moving forward.
“We have also offered meal kits to our guests, for take-out and as part of virtual cooking classes. We prepare and package the ingredients and send them home with instructions on how to prepare the food.
“It definitely isn’t ideal. One of the reasons why we get into this business, is because we love the social atmosphere. However, we have maintained contact with our guests through our newsletters and social media, updating them on every step in ever-changing circumstances. We are here because our guests continue to order from us. We couldn’t have survived 25+ years, and especially during a pandemic, without them. We are very grateful for their support.”
The life of a chef and restaurant owner is not something many would want; there are many challenges like long hours. Is the pandemic giving Gregorini more family time?
“Definitely. I think it has given many people time to reflect on how they operate and balance lifestyle and work. Like many industries, ours is very demanding and I believe this made us realize that lifestyle is worth much more than we thought. I am able to sit down for dinner at home with my family whereas before, Sunday was my only day off.”
What is Mark Gregorini going to do once we ease pandemic restrictions? Will he celebrate by doing a special menu?
“The restaurant industry has changed dramatically over the last year, so we need to change, too. We have many exciting projects in the works at the moment, so it will be a combination of new menus and new concepts. Stay tuned! Follow us on social media or sign up to our newsletter.”
Verdicchio Ristorante | Enoteca
1351 “D” Kelly Lake Road
Hours for Takeout and wine store: Thursday to Saturday 4:30 p.m. – 8 p.m.
Verdicchio.ca
705-523-2794
Hugh Kruzel is a freelance writer and committed foodie in Greater Sudbury. Let’s Eat is made possible by our Community Leaders Program.
