The name of the game now through April and May will remain “take-out” as we stay-at-home and remain locked-down. Where can you find good value and great taste? Don’t forget the Caruso Club.
“At Società Caruso we have had to adapt,” said Head Chef Irene Costantini, who is still preparing beautiful dishes. But “we can’t wait for our halls to reopen.”
Have you seen the West End Italian club’s new take-out menu?
“You can use Instagram/Facebook and view the list including all our past or upcoming specials,” Costantini said.
Just try to resist ordering everything. It was impossible to say no. There is enough for three feasts.
More than for the exclusive benefit of the Italian community anyone can place an order.
“Sudbury loves the Caruso and everyone loves Italian,” Costantini said. “We really have innovated our food over the years, but it still is simple cooking. Authentic is our main thing. It reminds everyone of home.”
Costantini is right. As you peel the lids off the aluminum dishes, the savoury steam is aromatic and inviting. Opening all the containers the fragrance of true ingredients fills the house with spice, goodness and happiness. This is honest food.
Sausages and penne with red peppers is zippy, while the mixed grilled vegetables are generously piled beside the moist and flavourful chicken parmigiana. Oregano, basil, thyme and garlic may be there, but Costantini won’t share all her methods.
A veal cutlet sits on a bed of roast potatoes, and a lasagna fills the other foil. Let me tell you that as snow fell (why does it snow in April?) the warmth of this food displaced any chill. A little chianti and candlelight … the evening is perfect.
Other choices include cappalletti with rosé sauce, and gnocchi with roast chicken to name just a few.
Costantini started out as a server in 1994, she also took on the role of cook as required. Since 2000, her official title has been head chef.
“The Caruso has fed more Sudburians -- and our visitors – than any other,” she said.
One of the busiest kitchens in Northern Ontario, it had a constant hum before the pandemic.
“Awards banquets, weddings, celebrations of all sorts … we are missing that energy of constant business. It was heartbreaking to stop Ristorante Enrico and slow down everything. Such a drastic change. We’re hanging in there … we are okay.
“Many of our staff have been here a long time. Most of us have been here since the ’80s and ’90s. In the kitchen, we only have nine people actively working. Because orders are down and because of COVID only a few of us are in at a time.”
Drive around to the north side of the building. There is dedicated take out parking. Head up the stairs. “We have put on protocols and identify traffic flow. Our cash register is behind Plexiglas. It is totally safe. You can order by phone and we will tell you when to arrive.”
Are there things Irene can share about the Caruso kitchen?
“Our sauce is definitely a constant. It is our recipe, but respects its history. I modified a few things to make things work for take out. Pasta, lasagna, are both very traditional. We had a 96-year-old lady who until COVID made the lasagna here. Now to make a Caruso roast chicken you have to have a certain pan, and season it over days and days to get it ready to cook our way. It is just not the same outcome at home.”
Even in pandemic times, Caruso has regulars.
“Regulars come every week. That’s their routine. We are closed Sundays and Mondays unless a special occasion. Our spaghetti and chicken dinner event was a huge hit. Yes, that day we prepared over 75 family dinners one day alone.”
Family dinners are definitely an option on the Caruso menu.
“They know them and love them. We have researched and our prices are very reasonable. It is the traditional cooking that brings people back,” Costantini said. “People are pleased we are open. We thought about what was possible, and what would be popular and well accepted.”
Asking for one more Caruso secret, it’s time Costantini shared her salad dressing.
“It’s very simple. Canola oil 2 parts, and 1 part white vinegar, plus salt and pepper. We sell it in a half-litre container.”
Can it be that easy?
If you are hungry for Italian check out the menu here. Then please call 705-675-1357 to place your order.
Hugh Kruzel is a freelance writer and committed foodie in Greater Sudbury. Let’s Eat is made possible by our Community Leaders Program.
