Going Places: Thousands of reasons to visit Gananoque

BY LIZ FLEMING

The Thousand Islands is one of Canada's most beautiful and inviting tourist destinations and it's just waiting to be explored, on two wheels.

Even a Sunday cyclist can handle the 37-kilometre scenic route along the banks of the St. Lawrence from Gananoque to just outside Brockville. A grassy strip separates bike riders from car drivers, but never blocks the panoramic views. Paved, flat and rolling, the route is manageable for all.

Rent a bike in Gananoque and bring water bottles and sunscreen, there's very little shade along the trail. Toss a bathing suit and towel into your bag so you can stop at one of the provincial parks along the route to swim or loll by the river and be sure to bring a bike lock. At one point, your Thousand Islands tour is going to involve trading wheels for water.

Wheel off the trail at the tiny town of Rockport, about 20 kilometres from Gananoque, then lock up your bike and climb aboard the Rockport Boat Line for an island tour.

You'll see it all: ritzy summer mansions on Millionaires' Row, tiny old cottages not much bigger than duck blinds, the shortest International Bridge in the world, and castles…yes, two of them.

Built in 1896 for Commodore Frederick G. Bourne, president of the famous sewing machine company, the Singer Castle crouches in Gothic grandeur on the granite rocks of Dark Island. A massive rabbit's warren of secret passages, historical artifacts and original furnishings, Singer Castle opened to the public in 2004 and now offers guided tours, a gift shop and a tea room overlooking lovely gardens.

If you'd like to play prince and princess for a night, book the luxury suite. Fit for wannabe royalty, it offers the unique opportunity to watch a Canadian sunset and an American sunrise. While other tour lines circle Singer Castle, Rockport Boat Lines is the only Canadian tour company that makes landings. Phone (613)-659-3402, (613) 659-2000, or visit www.rockportcruises.com for tour schedules.

The second of the St. Lawrence River's fairytale castles is a monument to heartbreak. Boldt Castle was built on Heart Island by George C. Boldt, owner of New York's famed Waldorf Astoria Hotel, as a gift for his wife. The massive construction project began in 1900 with 300 stonemasons, artists and carpenters to create the 120-room castle, complete with tunnels, a drawbridge, Italian gardens and dovecote. Four years and millions of dollars later, the project came to a stunning halt, when his wife died and her heartbroken husband couldn't go on. After languishing like Sleeping Beauty for 73 years, the castle was finally bought by the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority and ever since, slack-jawed tourists have been wandering the grounds, marveling at the power of love and loss.

Dark Island and Heart Island are both part of the United States, so tourists will need two pieces of identification (passport, citizenship card, birth certificate, driver's license, permanent resident card etc.) to clear Customs and Immigration.