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BY LIZ FLEMING
They say it’s healthy to stretch beyond your normal boundaries – to do something that makes your toes tingle.
Exploring the Resurgence Cave on the Rio Camuy near San Juan, Puerto Rico was exactly what the travel doctor ordered.
The tours run by The Outside Group, an experiential excursion company, are not for the faint of heart. Experienced guides lead you on challenging treks to show you above and below-ground treasures in the northern region of the island, home to more than 2,000 caves. Fascinated by nature? Have a serious taste for adventure? This tour is for you.
Suiting up in lifejackets, climbing harnesses, knee-pads, helmets and headlamps, we headed for the rainforest. Our hike began on a grassy hillside, but we were soon on a narrow, damp, slippery cliff-side path.
I watched every step. Was that rock solid? Would it roll? Was that a root a dependable handhold or a broken branch pushed into the muck? Beside us, 50 feet down, we could hear the gushing water of a rain-swollen river.
I’ve done caving tours in other countries, but the Outside Group’s version is the most rugged I’ve experienced. As owner Karel Hilversum explained, our expedition was going to involve real effort.
Slipping into the river at the base of the trail, we swam to the mouth of the cave. The contrast between the heat of the day and the cool, silt-filled river made us gasp…but we were just getting started.
We snapped on our headlamps and clambered onto the muddy cave floor. Deep and sticky, the mud sucked at our shoes as we scrambled for handholds on the rocks and moved into our first passageway.
“Lie on your belly to get through this space,” Hilversum advised. Roughly two feet of air separated the floor of the cave from the ceiling – just enough for us to wriggle sideways. Suddenly, I understood the weight restriction for participants – no one bigger than the 280 pound maximum would fit.
We journeyed into the heart of the cave, the passageways turning and twisting. Sometimes we could slip between the walls upright, with arms at our sides; at other times, we’d have to kneel and keep our heads tucked tightly down.
Though not claustrophobic, I had to focus on navigating just a few feet at a time. Had I let myself think past that, panic might have set in – as Hilversum told us it does for some guests. “Then we have to talk them out.”
Just as I was beginning to think I might need a talking-out myself, the passageway broadened into a breathtaking cavern. Occupied only by a tiny, squeaking family of bats and some gruesome-looking, but harmless guabas (saucer-sized, six-legged spider-cousins) this rocky cathedral was magnificent. Carved by erosion, it was testimony to the power of nature and a reminder of how small we humans truly are.
Simultaneously, we turned off our headlamps and sat in silent, profound darkness – something most people never experience. For a few moments, we savoured the silence, before continuing to the opening of the cave. Every moment was an exercise in concentration – finding safe foot and handholds – but when we finally emerged into the sunlight, we felt we’d been to the heart of the earth and back.
The final adventure of the day took us back to the top of the cliffs, where we looped ropes around a sturdy tree and took turns rappelling down the rock-face into the river. Tame by comparison to the cave climbing, but huge fun.
By the end of the day, we were wet, muddy, exhausted and exhilarated – but ready to indulge another side of our vacation personalities. We headed back to the elegant San Juan Marriott – approximately a hour’s drive - for a loll by the pool, a piña colada at the beach bar and a chance to brag to each other about our climbing prowess. It was the ideal combination of rugged outdoorsy adventure and upscale relaxation – and a great reason to fall madly in love with Puerto Rico.
For complete information on a variety of tours, prices, schedules etc. visit www.outsidegroup.com
